Baking Einkorn Bread in a Hot Kitchen

I’ve been working with einkorn flour for a couple of years, and as with every other type of grain I’ve experimented with, I’ve had some successes and some flops. It takes a little while to get used to how the grain works, especially when compared to regular bread flour, but that’s part of the fun.

 

The “Baking with Einkorn” workshop I attended a couple of weeks ago helped me understand more about the nuances of the flour. So after I got home, I couldn’t wait to begin testing this grain again.

Armed with some new tips and techniques, I set out to bake bread. I wanted to jump right in and start converting some of my favorite recipes now that I have a better idea of how to do that, but I opted to make a tested Einkorn bread recipe instead.

Start with the Classic Einkorn Sandwich Loaf

I started with a Classic Einkorn Sandwich Bread using the recipe printed on the bag of all-purpose Einkorn flour (also listed on the Jovial Foods’ site).

I was still getting over jet lag when I started this experiment so I forgot about the adjustments that need to be made when you’re baking in a hot kitchen. It’s 78 degrees F. in my Atlanta kitchen (with the air on and the oven off) so all bets are off when making bread, even if the recipe has been tested.

The first time I made it, I had to add a good bit more water than the recipe called for. I also reduced the yeast a bit, but I kept the amounts of other ingredients the same. The flavor of the bread was good, but the texture was too hard and chewy. Due to the excessive heat (and my foggy brain), the loaf was over proofed. It also didn’t have enough salt, in my opinion.

I baked the loaf at the suggested temperature of 375 degrees F. That temperature was too hot, especially in a ceramic loaf pan. The loaf turned out a bit chewy and harder than I expected. However, it made for a good grilled cheese sandwich. So although the loaf wasn’t optimal, it didn’t go to waste.

 

This loaf rose too much, was a bit chewy & dry, but still edible

 

Make Adjustments for Baking in a Hot Kitchen

The second time I attempted this bread, I made several adjustments based on the issues I found with the first loaf. I ended up using more water than the original formula, but not as much as I did for the first loaf. I also reduced the yeast by half and increased the salt to help keep the dough from rising to fast and too much in the heat. I kept the flour ratio and the amount of honey the same for both loaves.

Einkorn is very extensible so the dough came together really easily. However, the gluten structure is weaker so it doesn’t benefit from a long mix like you would with regular bread flour.

This time, I paid careful attention to the bulk fermentation period and the final proof so the loaf didn’t overproof. As a result, this loaf turned out much better. It rose beautifully, but not too much. The extra salt helped with the texture and the flavor. The texture was soft and fluffy like sandwich bread is supposed to be and the flavor was good.

This is the version I really liked

 

Einkorn Sandwich Loaf (in a hot kitchen)

I have not tested this particular recipe in milder weather yet, but this is version that worked for me in my hot kitchen during the summer.

Adapted from: Classic Einkorn Sandwich Loaf by Jovial Foods

Ingredients:

• 4 cups (480 grams) all-purpose einkorn flour
• 1 teaspoon (3.5 grams) instant yeast
• 1 1/2 teaspoons (8.5 grams) sea salt
• 1 1/8 cups (260 grams) water, lukewarm
• 1 tablespoon (14 grams) honey

Method:

Whisk together the flour, salt and yeast in a large mixing bowl.

Mix the warm water and honey in a separate container and stir to dissolve.

Add the water/honey mixture to the flour mixture and mix, using your hands or a Danish dough whisk, until there are no dry bits of flour. Add in additional water if necessary.

Transfer the dough to a lightly-floured work surface and knead gently until smooth.

Place the dough in a large, clean mixing bowl and let it rise at room temperature for 45 minutes to an hour.

When the dough has doubled in bulk, remove it from the bowl to a lightly-floured work surface and shape into a loaf. 

To shape the loaf, press the dough out into a rough rectangle, then fold the bottom and top edges in like a letter, pressing the seams closed so they don’t pop open during the proof cycle. Fold the left and right edges in toward the center; then fold it up again so the seam is enclosed in the center of the dough. Flip the loaf over and roll it gently back and forth on the work surface to elongate it to fit the loaf pan. Use a bench scraper to keep the dough from sticking to the work surface.

Place the loaf in a greased 8” x 4” loaf pan and cover with plastic. Let the loaf rise at room temperature for 30 minutes or until the loaf crests slightly over the top of the pan.

 

Bake the loaf for 35-40 minutes in a preheated oven at 350 degrees F. for nonstick pans and 325 degrees F. for glass loaf pans.

Remove the loaf from the oven, and if using glass pans, allow the loaf to rest in the pan for 10 minutes. Then remove the loaf to a wire rack to cool completely before slicing and serving.

 

I enjoyed slices of this bread with butter and with peanut butter, my favorite taste test for sandwich loaves.  It passed both taste tests.

Happy Baking!

Cathy

 

Ancient Grain Tartine: Spelt, Einkorn & KAMUT

The Bread of the Month (BOM) for the Artisan Bread Baker’s FB group is Spelt-Wheat Sourdough (modified from a Tartine recipe).

I wanted to make my version exclusively with ancient grains so I substituted Einkorn for the regular whole wheat, and 50/50 all-purpose KAMUT/Spelt flour for the bread flour. I used my Einkorn sourdough starter and mixed it with all-purpose Spelt to create the levain. 

I baked the loaves in a Cast Iron Dutch Oven Combo like the method outlined in Chad Robertson’s book. However, I used a slightly different proofing, scoring and baking technique.

I let the dough retard in the refrigerator for the bulk fermentation and the final proof (after placing the loaves in the banneton baskets). I did this in order to accommodate my schedule over the weekend, but I also wanted to see how it would affect the bread. For the final proof, I placed the loaves seam side up in the proofing baskets and when it was time to bake them, I took the baskets out of the refrigerator, and carefully flipped the loaves over onto a round piece of parchment paper cut to fit the bottom of the combo-baker.

I scored the loaves on the parchment paper and used a pizza peel to transfer them to the hot combo-baker instead of flipping them directly onto the bottom of the baker and scoring them at that time. This proved to be much easier on my arms and reduced the chance of being burned while flipping or scoring the loaves.

 

Ancient Grain Tartine

Adapted from Tartine Book No. 3 by Chad Robertson

Makes: 2 Loaves

Ingredients:

• 300 g whole grain spelt flour
• 300 g all-purpose spelt flour
• 300 g all-purpose KAMUT flour
• 150 g Einkorn flour
• 150 g Refreshed Levain (100% hydration) *
• 770 g Warm Water (80ºF or 27ºC) **
• 25 g sea salt
• 30 g warm water

* You only use 150 g of the refreshed starter in this bread so you’ll have some left over. You can use that as your starter and feed it like you normally would going forward. However, since I used a mixture of Einkorn and spelt, I didn’t plan to keep this mixture as my starter. I used the remaining levain to make sourdough crackers instead.

** The original formula calls for 800g of warm water. If you use regular bread flour and whole wheat flour (instead of ancient grains), you’ll probably need the additional water, but Einkorn and Spelt do not absorb water the same way regular wheat does.

Method:

Build your Levain

For the best results, you should start by refreshing, or building your starter. To do this, take 50 g of your favorite starter. I used my Einkorn starter (aka EK) and to that, added 200 g water, 100g all-purpose spelt flour, and 100 g whole grain Einkorn flour. Mix well, cover, and let stand at room temperature overnight (or until bubbly and active). It can take anywhere from 12 – 18 hours.  It took mine about 14 hours.

 

Mix the Dough:

In a large bowl whisk together the flours.

In a separate bowl combine the refreshed starter and the warm water.

Combine the wet and dry mixtures and mix with your hands or with a Danish dough whisk until no dry bits remain.

Autolyse: Cover and let the dough rest (autolyse) for at least 30 minutes.

After the autolyse, add the salt and 30 g of warm water.

Mix well to incorporate into the dough.Transfer dough to large bowl, and cover for bulk fermentation.

Bulk Rise: During the bulk rise (3 to 4 hours, depending on temperature), fold and turn the dough every 30 minutes for the first 2 ½ hours. To do a fold, scoop the underside of the dough up and stretch it over itself towards you. Rotate the container one-quarter turn and repeat three to four times. Keep dough covered between folding. After 3 hours and six folds, the dough should feel aerated, billowy, and softer. You will see a 20-30 percent increase in volume. If not, continue bulk rising for 30 minutes to 1 hour longer.

 

At this point, I retarded my dough in the refrigerator overnight. You can continue with the dividing and shaping and the bench rest if you prefer.

Dividing & Shaping: The next day, or after the bulk rise, turn out the dough onto a clean, un-floured work surface. Lightly flour the top surface of the dough and cut into two pieces. Pre-shape each piece gently into a round by working the dough in a circular motion. Take care to work the dough gently and not de-gas.

Bench Rest: Lightly flour the tops of the rounds, cover with a kitchen towel, and let rest on the work surface for 20-30 minutes. Line two medium baskets or bowls with clean, dry kitchen towels and dust generously with a 50/50 mixture of any wheat and rice flours.

Final Shaping: Refer to the Tartine (Chad Robertson) method for shaping wet dough (here is a helpful video link: http://youtu.be/cIIjV6s-0cA, the shaping starts at the 3:09 minute mark)

Final Rise: Transfer the dough to the floured baskets, flipping the dough over so that the seam side is facing up and centered. If you want to coat the loaf in seeds or cracked grain, roll the smooth side of the dough in the coating before transferring it to the floured rising baskets, placing the dough coated-side down, seam-side up. Cover with a clean, dry kitchen towel and let rise at warm room temperature for 3 to 5 hours or overnight in the refrigerator (bake directly from the refrigerator, if using this option).

I opted to place the baskets in the refrigerator overnight. As I mentioned, I wanted to see how they performed with the double retardation in the refrigerator.

 

To Bake: Pre-heat the oven to 500F/260C, adjust the oven rack to its lowest position, and place a cast iron Dutch oven, or any other heavy ovenproof pot with a tight-fitting lid into the oven. Pre-heat for at least 30 minutes.

Carefully transfer one dough round into the preheated Dutch oven, tipping it out of the basket into the pot so it is now seam-side down. Score the top of the dough, Cover the pot and return to the oven. After 20 minutes, reduce the oven temperature to 450F/230C. Bake another 10 minutes, then carefully remove the lid (a cloud of steam will be released). Continue to bake for another 20 to 25 minutes, until the crust is a deep golden brown.

This is where I deviated from the instructions.  Instead of tipping the loaves directly into the hot Dutch oven bottom, I flipped the loaves onto round parchment paper cut to fit the bottom of the Dutch oven. Then I scored the loaves on the parchment paper and transferred them to the bottom of the Dutch oven using a pizza peel.

When the loaf is done, turn it out onto a wire rack to cool.

To bake the second loaf, raise the oven temperature to 500F/260C, wipe out the Dutch oven with a dry kitchen towel, and reheat with the lid on for 15 minutes. Repeat the baking procedure as with the first loaf.

Cool completely, then slice, and enjoy!  

I think I may have proofed the loaves a bit too much, but they sure were good.  They were chewy and flavorful due to the sourdough levain.

 

This was a fun bake.  Thanks to Nancy for choosing and providing the instructions and inspiration for this bread.

 

Happy Baking!

Cathy

100% Spelt Sourdough with Flax Seed Soaker

I really enjoy working with Spelt because it’s very versatile and healthy.  So when I saw this lovely Sourdough Spelt Bread on Chews Wise, I knew I had to try it.

His version is beautiful, made with organic white bread flour and organic Spelt flour. I wanted a 100% Spelt loaf so I used a combination of whole grain and white Spelt bread flour. I also used a 100% hydration levain instead of a stiff levain.

Spelt is a fascinating grain. It’s not a modern grain; therefore, it does not perform in the same manner as modern wheat. Spelt absorbs water really well, but at the same time, it needs to be handled gently and not over mixed in order to develop the gluten. I’m still getting the hang of working with Spelt, but I’m having fun in the process.

My version turned out to be very interesting-looking due to the light color of the flour and the texture created by the flax seeds. I wasn’t sure how it would taste, but I really enjoyed the complex flavors in this sourdough bread. It reminds me of rye sourdough, however, it doesn’t contain any rye flour.

 

Sourdough Spelt Loaf with Flax Seeds

Adapted from: This Organic Loaf: Sourdough Spelt with Flax Seeds by Samuel Fromatz at Chews Wise

Ingredients:

Sourdough:

• 70 grams Spelt starter (100% hydration) 
• 70 grams water
• 60 grams White Spelt Bread Flour (I used Vita Spelt)
• 60 grams Whole Grain Spelt Flour (I used home-milled flour)

Flax Seed Soaker:

• 85 grams (1/2 cup) flax seeds
• 80 grams water (to cover the seeds)

Final Dough:

• 250 grams sourdough (all of the above)
• Flax seed soaker
• 280 grams White Spelt Flour
• 280 grams Whole Grain Spelt Flour
• 400 grams (~ 1 2/3 cup) water
• 12 grams Kosher salt

 

Directions:

1) Feed the Starter

The day before making this bread, discard about 2/3 of this Whole Grain Spelt Levain, then feed it with 125g White Spelt flour and 125g water and let it sit for 2 to 4 hours before beginning this recipe. Use 70g in this recipe.

2) Make the Sourdough

The night before you plan to make this bread, mix together the sourdough and let it sit overnight (8 – 12 hours), at room temperature (about 75 degrees F.)

 

The sourdough should have risen fully and just starting to deflate by the morning.

 

3) Flax seed soaker

Place the flax seeds in a separate bowl and just barely cover them with water. 

 

Cover the bowl and let the flax seeds sit overnight at room temperature. I added more water than the original recipe indicated. The seeds soaked it up completely.

 

4) Mixing the Dough

The next day, mix together the sourdough and water with a wooden spoon, dough whisk or a spatula until combined.  You don’t need a stand mixer for this recipe although you can use one if you prefer.  Just be sure not to over mix.

Add the flours and mix until the lumps are gone and the flour is fully hydrated. Cover the bowl and let the mixture rest for 20 minutes.

 

Add the salt and mix until it is thoroughly incorporated and the dough starts to take on a smooth texture. This will take about 5 minutes by hand. You may need to wet your hands and reach in the bowl to make sure the salt is evenly distributed.

 

Add the flax seed soaker and continue mixing until the seeds are evenly distributed.

 

5) Bulk Fermentation

Place the dough in a clean, oiled bowl and cover it with plastic wrap.  Let it rise for 2 1/2 – 3 hours at room temperature (about 75 degrees F.) Fold the dough twice at 50 minute intervals. I did the fold-and-turn method in the bowl, but you can remove the dough to a counter to fold it, just be sure not to tear it.

 

6) Shaping and Final Proof

Turn the dough out onto a floured surface and divide it into two pieces using a bench scraper.  Form the pieces into rough rounds and let them rest on the counter for 15 to 20 minutes.

 

Shape them into tighter rounds and place them seam-side up in floured banneton baskets. You can make your own proofing basket by placing a floured towel in a bowl and then putting the loaves inside. Cover the baskets with a towel or plastic wrap and let them proof at 75 degrees F. until they have doubled in size. This could take anywhere from 90 minutes to 2 1/2 hours.

At this point, you can proof the loaves at room temperature, then bake them. Or to enhance the sourdough flavor, you can retard them overnight in the refrigerator. If you retard them in the refrigerator, cover them tightly with plastic wrap so the outside of the dough doesn’t get hard.

 

To proof my loaves, I placed one basket in my new proofing box and set it to 75 degrees F. I placed the other loaf in the oven with the light off.

 

My loaves were rising really slowly so I turned the proofer up to 80 degrees F. and turned the light on in my oven.  They finally doubled in size.

 

7) Prepare the Oven for Hearth Baking

Preheat the oven for an hour at 475 degrees F. with a baking stone on the middle rack and a steam pan on the lowest rack. 

 

8) Scoring the Loaves

When the loaves have risen sufficiently, turn them onto a baking sheet lined with parchment paper that has been sprinkled with cornmeal.

The loaf that I had proofed in the proofing box, came out of the basket very easily, and I baked it with no problem. However, the loaf that had been proofed in the oven with the light on stuck to the basket, and I was unable to remove it without completely destroying it. So, I grabbed the wad of dough and reshaped it.  Then I let it rest on the counter for 30 minutes before placing it in the refrigerator overnight. The next day, I let the 2nd loaf warm up to room temperature and then scored and baked it following the process below.

 

Score round loaves in a square pattern using a serrated knife or lame. If you make Batards instead of round loaves, you can score them down the middle.

 

9) Baking the Loaves

Once the oven is preheated, slide the loaves (on the parchment paper) directly onto the baking stone and pour 1 cup of water in the steam pan. After 30 seconds, open the door, spray the walls with water, and close the door. Repeat twice more at 30-second intervals. Immediately turn the oven down to 450 degrees F. and close the oven door.

Bake the bread for 25 to 35 minutes. Check the loaves during the bake and rotate them 180 degrees for even baking if necessary. Continue baking until the loaves are brown and sound hollow when tapped on the bottom.  This bread is light colored so I didn’t want to burn it.  I turned the oven off after 30 minutes and let the loaves sit for 5 minutes to ensure they were baked through.

 

10) Cooling the Loaves

Remove the loaves to a wire rack and cool for at least an hour before slicing and serving. 

 

11) Slice and Enjoy!

I waited 24 hours before slicing this bread.  It was worth the wait.  The flavor is wonderful!  My taste tester really liked this bread, especially dipped in olive oil and sprinkled with a hazelnut spice blend.

This bread has been YeastSpotted. Please visit Wild Yeast to view the weekly roundups of lovely breads from bread bakers around the globe.

 

The Spelt Sourdough bread tasted great with these stuffed bell peppers. Yum!

 

Happy Baking!

Cathy